Appliqué Tutorial - Part 2 - Bias Tape

See Part 1 - Shapes

Continuing our Appliqué tutorial!

When I have stems to make for any applique piece, I use Clover's bias tape makers.  They take the mess out of the process, and I actually like making it!

What you'll need to get started:

A dry iron

Best Press

Clover Bias Tape Maker in whatever size you want to make

(The 3/8" size is made for use with fusible web, but is used in basically the same way, with or without the fusible web.)

Straight pin

Fabric of choice

Flour sack dish towel to cover your pressing surface

This is what the bias tape maker looks like:

Side

Large end for feeding the fabric

Small end where the bias exits

Step 1:

On the bias of your fabric, cut strips twice the size of the bias tape

you want to make.

I made 1/4" in this example, so I cut the fabric 1/2" wide

Step 2:
Spray the fabric with Best Press.  It should be wet but you don't want puddles!

Step 3:
Start feeding the fabric into the large end of the bias tape maker, wrong side up.

Step 4:
Turn the bias tape maker over.  You'll see the end of the fabric
in the little window.

Take your straight pin and push the fabric toward the small end
until it exits the tube.

It will look like this:

Step 5:
Turn the bias tape maker over again and let it sit flat
on your covered ironing surface.

Place the tip of your dry iron against the small end
of the bias tape maker as shown.

Hold the handle with your left hand and then push the iron to the left.

The bias tape maker will glide over the pressing surface
feeding the bias fabric as it goes.

Guide the bias tape maker, keeping the fabric feeding straight,
as you push the iron.

If you move the iron off, this is what you'll see.

Just keep going until you reach the end of your bias strip.
This is what it will look like, wrong and right sides.

Voila!  A beautiful pile of vines or stems!

This concludes Part 2 of "Perfect" Applique - Bias Binding, The Tutorial

See Part 1 Here

Look for Part 3 soon.

Happy Quilting!!

This post was first seen on the "Piecing the Past Quilts" Blog.

Applique Tutorial - Part 1

My Applique History - Skip this if you just want to get to the tutorial!

Applique and I have been in a merry war for years.  I tried it a number of times, and inevitably I ended up tense and going to pieces.  It was no fun and I finally decided I just wasn't going to mess with it anymore.

However.......I belong to a quilt group in which there are many amazing applique artists, and they kept encouraging me to try again.  I kept saying, "Thank you, but no."

Well, eventually I ended up deciding that I needed to slay this giant, so signed up for an introductory applique class.  It was okay, but nothing super special.  I came away with an understanding of which thread I'd like to use, a handy way to make bias tape for stems, and an assurance that my stitching was fine.  I also came away with the confirmed knowledge that I still greatly disliked needle-turn. Period.

Shortly thereafter, a free block of the month project came up on PickleDish.com for a World War I commemorative quilt.  My grandfather served in the Great War and I thought it would be a good quilt to make and try to use his uniform buttons on it somehow.  So I started in with the knowledge that I would have to conquer 34 leaves and as many inches of stem on each block.  I knew how to do the stems now, but the leaves.  Oh, how they made me quake!

A friend of mine had the same struggles, and she came up with an idea that solved the issue for both of us.  She made some "perfect" leaves from heat-resistant mylar along the same lines as Karen Kay Buckley's Perfect Circles.  Voila!! We were in business.

This is the result:

Ever since then, I've enjoyed applique.  I've branched out into other shapes as well, and when I design a pattern, or one strikes my fancy, I make sure the applique shapes can utilize the "perfect" method.  No sharp interior curves or angles, and I've got it made.

I realize that this method is limiting. Needle-turn is a creatively limitless method, but if it doesn't work for me, I'd rather do what does and be able to add those cute applique touches that make me happy.

Okay, now for the tutorial!!

Applique, Part 1 - The Tutorial

NOTE: It would be good to read through all the instructions before you start.
Some things that might be foggy at the beginning will be clearer the further you get into the tutorial.

You will need a few things to get yourself started:

Heat-resistant Mylar (I use both clear and opaque)
Karen Buckley's Perfect Circles (there are ovals, too)
Fine-tip Sharpie
Frixion Pen
Good sharp scissors
Needle and thread
Dry Iron
Best Press
Flour sack dishtowel
Pattern
Fabric

Step 1:
Trace your pattern pieces onto transparent Mylar using a fine-tip Sharpie.
It may be a little hard to see in the picture, but the Mylar is positioned over the flower and leaves in the middle of the picture.

Step 2:

Cut out your pieces using sharp scissors.

These are the shapes you will use to form your fabric.

Step 3:
Place your pattern shapes on another piece of Mylar (I like the white best for this step because it's heavier and thicker) and trace them using a fine-tip Sharpie.
Add 1/4" turning allowance to your tracing lines and cut out.
The larger shapes will be your templates for marking your fabric.

NOTE:

I make lots of the smaller shapes, but just one of the larger.

As you'll see farther on, the smaller shapes go inside the fabric.

You can get a bunch ready to go at once and save time at your pressing station.

NOTE:

I keep my bigs and littles in small zipper bags to keep them organized, and my Perfect Circles on the ring that comes with them.

Step 4:
NOTE: Make sure you click on this next series of pictures so you can see enlarged versions.

Using the larger size shapes you've made, trace around them on your fabric using a Frixion pen.
(The Frixion pen ink will disappear when ironed.)
If you are using Perfect Circles, use a circle 1/2" larger than your finished circle size so you have 1/4" turning allowance all around.

Step 5:
Cut out the shapes.
Good sharp scissors with a tiny serration are awesome for this.
I use Karen Buckley's Perfect Scissors.  The serration helps with minimizing fraying.

Step 6:

Using needle and thread, baste around each shape 1/8" from the edge.

No need to knot the thread.

Start and end your thread on the right side of the fabric as shown.

Step 7:

Place the Mylar shapes in the center of each fabric shape.

Pull both ends of the thread gently to bring the fabric up around the Mylar shape.

Continue to draw the threads across the shape and down, snugging the fabric around the shape.

Step 8:

Cover your pressing board with a flour sack dishtowel to protect it.

While holding the threads, spray the shape with Best Press.

Get it wet, but not totally soaked.

The wetness will relax the fabric.

If necessary, gently pull on the threads again to snug it up.

Using a dry iron set on medium-high, press on the wrong side first,

covering the shape with the iron.

Hold for about 10 seconds. Test the time for your iron.

The Mylar is heat resistant, but can buckle if it gets too hot.

Turn the shape over and do the same on the right side, making sure it is dry when finished.

This is what they'll look like.

The Best Press really makes a huge difference in keeping their shape.

Step 9:

Remove the Mylar shapes carefully.

Pat the edges down, but don't press again.  It can make nasty marks if you do.

Pull the threads across the shape and snip them.

Step 10:

Turn them over.

This is what they look like on the right side!!

Isn't that awesome?!?!

This is the end of Applique, Part 1, The Tutorial

See Part 2 Here

How to make bias tape for perfect stems and vines.

This post was first seen on the Piecing the Past Quilts Blog.

How to use the "Fit to be Geese" Ruler for square-in-a-square blocks

Okay, so about 2 weeks ago, a good friend and I went to one of our favorite quilt shops for a few additions to our stashes, and while there we were introduced to the "Fit to be Geese" ruler. It's made by Open Gate Quilts.

We were admiring a square-in-a-square-in-a-square (yes, that many!) quilt top on their design wall and were marveling at how beautifully the blocks were pieced and how precise they were.  Every quilt we see in the shop is always that way!  So we commented on how accurate the piecing was, and the gal who was working said that all their piecing is done by making blocks bigger than necessary and then trimming them down.....often using this little goodie!

The ruler is designed to be used in making flying geese blocks, and there are instructions for that purpose that come with the ruler, but here is a tutorial on how to use them for square-in-a-square blocks!

This is the ruler:

Step 1 - Here are a 3 1/2" four-patch block and a 5" charm square:

Step 2 - Here are the same with the charm square diagonally cut into quarters:

Step 3 - Sew two quarter-square triangles onto the four-patch on opposite sides and press:

Step 4 - Sew the remaining two quarter-square triangles onto the remaining two sides and press:

Step 5 - Place the ruler with the black 90º angle lined up with one of the
90º angles on your block:

See how the top of the ruler makes a perfect 1/4" seam allowance?

Step 6 - Trim off the excess like this:

Step 7 - Turn the block and do the next side:

Step 8 - Continue around to do all 4 sides so it looks like this:

Voila!  A perfect square-in-a-square with proper seam allowances and no wonky parts!!

That was easy!

Happy Quilting!

This post was first seen on the Piecing the Past Quilts Blog

Easy-Peasy Pinwheel Quilt!

A few weeks ago I had some fun making these quilts for my grandkids.  They went together so easily and I just love how playful they are.

I made the pinwheels using Jenny Doan's method over at Missouri Star Quilt Co.  Here's a video you can view to see what I mean.  I don't think I'll make pinwheels any other way ever again!

So, for each quilt I used two 42-piece Lexington charm packs and had leftovers.

I  paired a light and a dark for each pinwheel and then scattered them on my design wall until a pleasing pattern emerged.

Once they were sewn together, I bordered them 3 times....
First with a 1/2" dark strip...
then a 2" light strip...
and finished with 6" outer borders set with 4 pinwheels for cornerstones.
(I made larger pinwheels out of yardage for the cornerstones so I'd have a bit bigger outer borders, but 5" would work, as well.)

There is no border length measurement greater than 43 1/2", so I was able to cut all of them from the width of the fabric, with a total of just over 1 yard!
Backing was about 2 3/4 yards.

I machine quilted it using a wavy line stitch on my faithful Bernina 730 (which I bought used in 1985 for more than the original owner paid for it!!), and had them done in under 2 weeks!

Here's the pertinent info:

Quilt Size:
45x55

Block Size:
About 5 1/2", finished

Set:
Straight
5x7

Border Sizes, finished:
Inner: 1/2"
Middle: 2"
Outer: 6"

MATERIALS:

Blocks:
2 charm packs

Borders:
4" of dark narrow inner border fabric
10" of light middle border fabric
24" of outer border fabric

Backing:
2 3/4 yard

Have fun and Happy Quilting!!

The joys of cold weather!

I am a California girl on the inside.  I was born and raised there, and didn't leave until I was 40.  My internal seasonal clock still revolves around summer.  As in, "We just finished summer," (in November), and, "Only 3 months til summer," when we hit spring.  So when we moved to the northwest, I had to learn to find joy in the often cool and rainy days, especially in the late fall and winter when the cold outside doesn't agree with me.

So I do a lot of piecing and quilting in the "dark months."  And I love it.

Here's a teaser for a project I've started with small blocks.  Stay tuned!

Happy Quilting!